Exhibition: ‘Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography’ at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York

Exhibition dates: 28th June, 2025 – 21st June, 2026

Curators: Ron Magliozzi, Curator, with Katie Trainor, Film Collections Manager and Cara Shatzman, Collection Specialist, Department of Film.

 

Bob Beerman (American) 'Rock Hudson' c. 1953

 

Bob Beerman (American)
Rock Hudson
c. 1953
Sheet: 9 15/16 x 8″ (25.2 x 20.3cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

 

Silhouetting the celebrity

MoMA always puts on interesting photography exhibitions and this one is no exception. Of course, they have a huge collection to draw from, but it still takes intelligence and curatorial inspiration to bring it all together.

It took me a long time to compile the posting. There were not many media images available but with a bit of digging around on the MoMA collection web pages, and searching online, I managed to find enough photographs to illustrate the exhibition / plus the installation photographs / and the addition of movie posters and magazines to illuminate the films the still photographs were taken from (please note: not in the exhibition). While many of the publicity shots were taken by unknown stills photographers, I have also added bibliographic information for the known photographers where possible.

This would be my only criticism of the exhibition: the inability of the viewer to visualise how these “covered with masking tape, marked up with crayon, or reconfigured with ghostly halos of white-out” photographs were actually used (in the press in everyday life) to create the fantasy ideals of Hollywood glamour stars. Perhaps this was a deliberate curatorial strategy, to concentrate on the pre-production rather than the post-production, to concentrate just on the still photos, without the distraction of further stimuli. And I can understand that decision.

In this posting I can show you three examples of how these still photographs were used: the untouched photograph Jean Simmons, Rock Hudson [in “This Earth is Mine”] by an unknown photographer (1959, below) has then been colourised and used on the front cover of the DVD release of this film; the Limehouse Blues movie poster (1934, below) features a white-out around George Raft’s head, similar to the white-out around Joan Crawford or Rock Hudson (above); and the hair of Elsa Manchester in Elsa Lanchester [in “The Bride of Frankenstein”] by an unknown photographer (1935, below) is graphically stylised and coloured in the The Bride of Frankenstein movie poster (1935, below).

Silhouetting, in-painting, masking, sectioning, and collage were all hands-on practices that readied the photographs for the press whilst in press they promoted the desirous ideal of the glamorous movie starlet, heroic action man, the fantasy ready and available for consumption by the reading public: the beautiful heroine available to the male gaze, aspirational for so many young women.

Dr Marcus Bunyan


Many thankx to MoMA for allowing me to publish the photographs in the posting. Please click on the photographs for a larger version of the image.

 

 

“Though Iris Barry, who in 1935 became the founding curator of The Museum of Modern Art’s Film Library, aimed to preserve the history of moving images as an art form, she didn’t stop at moving images. “She was trying to save the record of film history,” explains Ron Magliozzi, a curator in what is today known as the Department of Film. “When the department was founded, the silent period had just ended. And its whole history was considered irrelevant and of no interest. That’s why she was so aggressive in collecting it. Films were the most important thing, and images from film history were second.”

Today, the Museum’s Film Stills Collection includes well over a million publicity photos, production stills, and more – and it’s not all pristine, glossy prints. In the current exhibition Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography, many of the images are covered with masking tape, marked up with crayon, or reconfigured with ghostly halos of white-out. It’s an occasionally startling reminder that the manipulation of photographs – and of celebrity itself – long predates Photoshop and Instagram.”


Jason Persse, Assistant Director, Content Team, MoMA

 

 

The Museum of Modern Art announces Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography, the first major exhibition of Hollywood studio portraiture to be drawn from the Museum’s film stills archive since 1993. On view in the Titus and Morita Galleries, the exhibition will offer a revisionist look at the Department of Film’s photographic archive, examining the evolution of editorial practice before the digital age, AI technology, and social media reshaped the experience of celebrity.

Face Value will feature over 200 works from 1921 to 1996, including studio photography of Louis Armstrong, Harry Belafonte, Clara Bow, Louise Brooks, Bette Davis, Mia Farrow, Katharine Hepburn, Dennis Hopper, Lena Horne, Bela Lugosi, Carmen Miranda, Elvis Presley, Diana Ross, Barbara Stanwyck, Elizabeth Taylor, Spencer Tracy, Oprah Winfrey, and many others.

Text from the MoMA website

 

Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026

 

Installation views of the exhibition Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 – June 2026 showing in the left hand block of 9 photographs of the bottom image, from left to right top row to bottom row: Ray Jones’ Margaret Sullavan c. 1939 (below); Clarence Sinclair Bull’s Hedy Lamarr c. 1940; Adolph L. “Whitey” Schafer’s Rosalind Russell c. 1940; Ray Jones’ Mischa Auer c. 1940; Unknown photographer Harry Belafonte [in “The Angel Levine”] 1970; Irving Lippman’s George Raft c. 1933; Hal Phyfe’s Miriam Hopkins c. 1930; Unknown photographer Dorothy Gish c. 1929; and Imandt’s Joan Bennett c. 1939
Photos: Jonathan Dorado

 

Ray Jones (American, 1901-1947) 'Margaret Sullavan' c. 1939

 

Ray Jones (American, 1901-1947)
Margaret Sullavan
c. 1939
Sheet: 13 7/8 x 10 7/8″ (35.2 x 27.6cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026

 

Installation view of the exhibition Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 – June 2026 showing at right in the bottom image at third left in top row, Unknown photographer Jackie Robinson c. 1950
Photos: Jonathan Dorado

 

Unknown photographer. 'Jackie Robinson' c. 1950

 

Unknown photographer
Jackie Robinson
c. 1950
Sheet: 10 x 8″ (25.4 x 20.3cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

 

The Museum of Modern Art announces Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography, the first major exhibition of Hollywood studio portraiture to be drawn from the Museum’s film stills archive since 1993. On view in the Titus and Morita Galleries from June 28, 2025, through June 21, 2026, the exhibition will offer a revisionist look at the Department of Film’s photographic archive, examining the evolution of editorial practice before the digital age, AI technology, and social media reshaped the experience of celebrity.

Face Value will feature over 200 works from 1921to 1996, including studio photography of Louis Armstrong, Harry Belafonte, Clara Bow, Louise Brooks, Bette Davis, Mia Farrow, Katharine Hepburn, Dennis Hopper, Lena Horne, Bela Lugosi, Carmen Miranda, Elvis Presley, Diana Ross, Barbara Stanwyck, Elizabeth Taylor, Spencer Tracy, Oprah Winfrey, and many others.

Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography is organised by Ron Magliozzi, Curator, with Katie Trainor, Film Collections Manager, and Cara Shatzman, Collection Specialist, Department of Film.

Face Value will encourage viewers to see through the facade of glamour at how celebrity is fabricated and exploited,” says Ron Magliozzi. Showcasing work by over 58 photographers, the exhibition will juxtapose “untouched” images like Otto Dyar’s Carole Lombard (c. 1933) with those altered through traditional press practices such as silhouetting, in-painting, masking, sectioning, and collage, like James Manatt’s Joan Crawford portrait for the film Letty Lynton (1932). Face Value examines how these methods shaped representations of not only film stars but also sports figures, socialites, and politicians, from Jackie Robinson to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Eleanor Roosevelt. Presented in thematic suites, the installation highlights radical editing techniques, stylised visual motifs, and the gendered aesthetics embedded in the system, offering a revealing perspective on the fabrication of glamour and fame.

Since the Museum’s founding, photography has played a vital role in how it has documented the history of motion pictures. Face Value traces the origin of this early initiative to MoMA’s first film curator, Iris Barry, whose archival efforts led to the acquisition of editorial collections from Photoplay (1911-1980) and Dell (1921-1976), two leading publications that helped define Hollywood’s star system. The exhibition includes images of comic stars Buster Keaton, W. C. Fields, Lupe Velez, and Mae West; pioneering actress Hattie McDaniel with Ruby Berkley, the first Black accredited Hollywood correspondent; famed aviatrix Amelia Earhart on a Hollywood film set; and the last photo shoot with Marilyn Monroe.

Featuring promotional portraits crafted to cultivate celebrity personas, such as Ray Jones’s Anna May Wong portrait for the film Limehouse Blues, Soul of a Dragon (1934), the exhibition explores how these images were manipulated for public consumption through hands-on editing techniques long before digital tools became standard.

Press release from MoMA

 

Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026 showing a video still from 'Edie Sedgwick, Gerard Malanga, Benedetta Barzini, Ingrid Superstar, Nat Finkelstein: Danny Williams footage of unknown documentary film shoot' c. 1965, processed 2024
Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026 showing a video still from 'Edie Sedgwick, Gerard Malanga, Benedetta Barzini, Ingrid Superstar, Nat Finkelstein: Danny Williams footage of unknown documentary film shoot' c. 1965, processed 2024

 

Installation views of the exhibition Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 – June 2026 showing in the bottom two photographs, video stills from Edie Sedgwick, Gerard Malanga, Benedetta Barzini, Ingrid Superstar, Nat Finkelstein: Danny Williams footage of unknown documentary film shoot c. 1965, processed 2024 (below)
Photos: Jonathan Dorado

 

'Edie Sedgwick, Gerard Malanga, Benedetta Barzini, Ingrid Superstar, Nat Finkelstein: Danny Williams footage of unknown documentary film shoot' c. 1965, processed 2024
'Edie Sedgwick, Gerard Malanga, Benedetta Barzini, Ingrid Superstar, Nat Finkelstein: Danny Williams footage of unknown documentary film shoot' c. 1965, processed 2024

 

Edie Sedgwick, Gerard Malanga, Benedetta Barzini, Ingrid Superstar, Nat Finkelstein: Danny Williams footage of unknown documentary film shoot
c. 1965, processed 2024
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Edie Sedgwick dances in Andy Warhol’s Silver Factory during a photoshoot

 

Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026 showing at top centre, 'Jacqueline Kennedy with Caroline Kennedy, John F. Kennedy Jr.' 1960s; and a bottom centre, 'Elizabeth Taylor and Eddie Fisher with Michael Wilding Jr. and Christopher Wilding' 1960s

 

Installation view of the exhibition Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 – June 2026 showing at top centre, Jacqueline Kennedy with Caroline Kennedy, John F. Kennedy Jr. 1960s; and a bottom centre, Elizabeth Taylor and Eddie Fisher with Michael Wilding Jr. and Christopher Wilding 1960s
Photo: Jonathan Dorado

 

Installation view of the exhibition 'Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography' at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 - June 2026 showing from top left to right, top to bottom, Unknown photographer Harry 'Belafonte and Joan Fontaine' 1957; Gene Lester (American, 1910-1994) 'Dean and Jeannne Martin' 1958; Bob Beerman (American) 'Rock Hudson' c. 1953; Unknown photographer 'Jean Simmons, Rock Hudson [in "This Earth is Mine"]' 1959; Unknown photographer 'Jean Simmons [in "The Big Country"]' 1958; Unknown photographer 'Elizabeth Threatt and Dewey Martin [in "The Big Sky"]' 1952; Unknown photographer 'Dorothy Malone and Anthony Quinn' 1957; Unknown photographer 'André De Toth and Veronica Lake' 1944; Unknown photographer 'Edmund O'Brien and Tom D'Andrea [in "Fighter Squadron"]' 1948; Unknown photographer 'Ward Bond and Ida Lupino [in "On Dangerous Ground"]' 1951; Unknown photographer 'Aldo Ray and Katharine Hepburn [in "Pat and Mike"]' 1952

 

Installation view of the exhibition Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New York, June 2025 – June 2026 showing from top left to right, top to bottom, Unknown photographer Harry Belafonte and Joan Fontaine 1957 (below); Gene Lester (American, 1910-1994) Dean and Jeannne Martin 1958; Bob Beerman (American) Rock Hudson c. 1953 (top of posting); Unknown photographer Jean Simmons, Rock Hudson [in “This Earth is Mine”] 1959 (below); Unknown photographer Jean Simmons [in “The Big Country”] 1958; Unknown photographer Elizabeth Threatt and Dewey Martin [in “The Big Sky”] 1952; Unknown photographer Dorothy Malone and Anthony Quinn 1957; Unknown photographer André De Toth and Veronica Lake 1944; Unknown photographer Edmund O’Brien and Tom D’Andrea [in “Fighter Squadron”] 1948; Unknown photographer Ward Bond and Ida Lupino [in “On Dangerous Ground”] 1951; Unknown photographer Aldo Ray and Katharine Hepburn [in “Pat and Mike”] 1952
Photo: Jonathan Dorado

 

Unknown photographer. 'Harry Belafonte and Joan Fontaine [in "Island in the Sun"]' 1957

 

Unknown photographer
Harry Belafonte and Joan Fontaine [in “Island in the Sun”]
1957
Sheet: 6 15/16 × 9 1/16″ (17.6 × 23 cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Unknown photographer. 'Jean Simmons, Rock Hudson [in "This Earth is Mine"]' 1959

 

Unknown photographer
Jean Simmons, Rock Hudson [in “This Earth is Mine”]
1959
Sheet: 8 x 9 15/16″ (20.3 x 25.2cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

'This Earth Is Mine' (1959) DVD cover

 

This Earth is Mine (1959) DVD cover

 

Otto Dyar (American, 1892-1988) 'Carole Lombard' c. 1933

 

Otto Dyar (American, 1892-1988)
Carole Lombard
c. 1933
Sheet: 13 7/8 x 10 1/2″ (35.2 x 26.7cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

 

Hollywood stills photographers like Dyar “were not mirroring life, but illusion; their subjects were not humans but gods – of love, of allure, of luxury, perfection incarnate from the golden age of Hollywood glamor”


John Kobal (ed), Hollywood glamor portraits, Courier Corporation, 1976, p.V on the Wikipedia website

 

 

Otto Dyar was a prominent stills photographer who began his career at the Paramount studios in the 1920s. Initially working as an assistant on major film productions such as the 1927 ‘Wings’, Dyar quickly rose through the ranks to become one of Hollywood’s most notable image-makers.

During the 1930s and 40s, Dyar developed his own, highly dramatic style of lighting and photography that deviated from the neoclassical glamor of the 1920s. Edgy and expressionistic, Dyar’s photographs pushed the iconic features of movie stars like Carole Lombard, Cary Grant, Kay Francis and Joan Crawford to a grittier place that was more in accord with the aesthetics of films made in those decades. Of particular note are Dyar’s star portraits taken outside of the studio, an unusual and daring step at the time.

Despite all the high-contrast lighting, skewed angles and often tiny ‘surrealist’ interventions that point to the influence of photographers like Man Ray, Dyar faithfully accomplished the task of elevating the studio stars to the realm of deities. Like his peers George Hurrell, Ted Allen and Clarence Sinclair Bull, Dyar was not concerned with the psychologies of his sitters. What interested him was amplifying and consolidating the image the stars exuded in their roles, which was usually so powerful that it eclipsed the ‘real’ person that was in front of the camera.

Vigen Galstyan. “Dyar, Otto,” on the Lusadaran: Armenian Photography Foundation website 2015 [Online] Cited 02/04/2026. Used under fair use conditions for the purposes of education and research

 

Otto Dyar (American, 1892-1988) 'Louise Brooks' c. 1927

 

Otto Dyar (American, 1892-1988)
Louise Brooks
c. 1927
Sheet: 13 15/16 x 10 15/16″ (35.4 x 27.8cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Otto Dyar (American, 1892-1988) 'Anna May Wong' 1930s

 

Otto Dyar (American, 1892-1988)
Anna May Wong
1930s
Sheet: 13 7/8 x 10 7/8″ (35.2 x 27.6cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Ray Jones (American, 1901-1947) 'Anna May Wong [in "Limehouse Blues"]' 1934

 

Ray Jones (American, 1901-1947)
Anna May Wong [in “Limehouse Blues”]
1934
Sheet: 12 7/8 x 10″ (32.7 x 25.4cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

'Limehouse Blues' (1934) movie poster

 

Limehouse Blues (1934) movie poster

 

Unknown photographer. 'Anna May Wong' c. 1934

 

Unknown photographer
Anna May Wong
c. 1934
MoMA Film Stills Archive
Sheet: 8 x 6″ (20.3 x 15.2cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Unknown photographer. 'Myrna Loy [in "Across the Pacific"]' 1926

 

Unknown photographer
Myrna Loy [in “Across the Pacific”]
1926
Sheet: 11 x 14″ (27.9 x 35.6cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Advertisement for the American romantic adventure film 'Across the Pacific' (1926) with Monte Blue and Myrna Loy, on pages 6 and 7 of the October 26, 1926 'Film Daily'

 

Advertisement for the American romantic adventure film Across the Pacific (1926) with Monte Blue and Myrna Loy, on pages 6 and 7 of the October 26, 1926 Film Daily

 

John Miehle (American, 1902-1952) 'Dolores del Rio and Edmund Lowe [in "The Bad One"]' 1930

 

John Miehle (American, 1902-1952)
Dolores del Rio and Edmund Lowe [in “The Bad One”]
1930
Sheet: 13 7/8 x 10 15/16″ (35.2 x 27.8cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

John Miehle was born on August 7, 1902 in Los Angeles, California. Being born so close to Hollywood Miehle went to work as an assistant camera man on the 1931 movie “Delicious” starring Janet Gaynor and Charles Farrell.  

He then worked exclusively in the Camera and Electrical Department doing uncredited still photography on some of the best known films, such as “What Price Hollywood?,” “Rain,” “Little Women,” “Top Hat,” “Kitty Foyle,” “Rope” and “Portrait of Jennie.”

He photographed many of the greats as well including Constance Bennett, Joan Crawford, Irene Dunne, Ginger Rogers, Ann Harding, William Powell, Joel McCrea, Katherine Hepburn, Joan Bennett, Delores Del Rio, Randolph Scott, James Stewart, Cary Grant, Jean Arthur, Ruth Hussey, Jennifer Jones, Joseph Cotten, Ethel Barrymoore, Laraine Day, Franchot Tone, Ann Blyth, Farley Granger, and Dana Andrews…

In addition, he did many publicity shots of such stars as Carole Lombard, Marilyn Monroe, and Lucille Ball.

Don’t Forget The Illustrator! “The Classics and “Ginger Rogers” photographer John Miehle,” on the Vintage Movie Star Photos blog Thursday, March 28, 2013 [Online] Cited 12/05/2026. Used under fair use conditions for the purposes of education and research

 

'The Bad One' (1930) movie poster

 

The Bad One (1930) movie poster

 

William Walling Jr (American, 1904-1983) 'Carole Lombard' c. 1933

 

William Walling Jr (American, 1904-1983)
Carole Lombard
c. 1933
Sheet: 13 7/8 x 11 15/16″ (35.2 x 30.3cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

William Richard Walling, Jr. (October 6, 1904 – December 11, 1983) was an American actor, inventor, and portrait photographer for film studios.

 

Robert Coburn (American, 1900-1990) 'Vera Zorina [in "The Goldywyn Follies"]' c. 1937

 

Robert Coburn (American, 1900-1990)
Vera Zorina [in “The Goldywyn Follies”]
c. 1937
Sheet: 13 13/16 x 10 15/16″ (35.1 x 27.8cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Eva Brigitta Hartwig (January 2, 1917 – April 9, 2003), known professionally as Vera Zorina, was a German-Norwegian ballerina, theatre and film actress, and choreographer, chiefly remembered for her films choreographed by her husband George Balanchine. They include the Slaughter on Tenth Avenue sequence from On Your ToesThe Goldwyn FolliesI Was an Adventuress with Erich Von Stroheim and Peter LorreLouisiana Purchase with Bob Hope, and dancing to “That Old Black Magic” in Paramount Pictures’ Star Spangled Rhythm.

Text from the Wikipedia website

 

Robert Coburn was one of the most influential portrait photographers working in the major Hollywood movie studios from the 1930’s to 1960’s. His star subjects included Rita Hayworth, Joan Crawford, Kim Novak, Carole Lombard, William Holden, Glenn Ford, and Orson Welles. Coburn’s most infamous portraits immortalised Hollywood’s greatest icons and helped to define this era as the Golden Age of Cinema. In 1940, Robert Coburn began a twenty-year career with Columbia Pictures as the head of the still production department and the studio’s chief portrait photographer for many landmark films including “Picnic”, “Gilda”, and “The Big Heat”.

Text from the Fahey/Klein Gallery website

 

'Goldwyn Follies' (1937) movie poster

 

Goldwyn Follies (1937) movie poster

 

 

Face Value: Celebrity Press Photography Introductory text

For MoMA’s founding film curator, Iris Barry, building an archive of images that documented the history of motion pictures was second only to collecting films. Photographs from the study collection that she created were among the first works exhibited in MoMA’s theater gallery. Barry’s initiative eventually led to the acquisition of editorial archives from Photoplay (1911-1980) and Dell (1921-1976), leading fan magazine publishers supporting the Hollywood star system. The portrait photography featured in these publications was produced by film studios to promote the glamorous celebrities under contract to them. Face Value looks at these images and surveys how they were manipulated for public consumption in the decades before digital tools, AI technology, and social media revolutionized the process. 

Over sixty photographers are represented in this installation, which intermingles images that survive untouched with those that show evidence of the hands-on practices that readied them for the press. The standard techniques used – silhouetting, in-painting, masking, sectioning, and collage – were applied not only to photographs of entertainers but to sports figures, socialites, and politicians as well. Organised in suites that highlight radical editing practices, stylised visual motifs, and the gender stereotypes inherent in the studio system, the exhibition offers a demystifying perspective on the glamour of celebrity.

Wall text from the exhibition

 

George P. Hommel (American, 1901-1953) 'Clara Bow' c. 1929

 

George P. Hommel (American, 1901-1953)
Clara Bow
c. 1929
Sheet: 14 x 11″ (35.6 x 27.9 cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Overshadowed by the work of 1920s Paramount colleagues Donald Biddle Keyes and Eugene Robert Richee, stillsman George P. Hommel crafted thoughtful portraits highlighting both the beauty and sorrow of those he photographed. Like Keyes, the peripatetic Hommel always looked for new challenges, new opportunities, keeping him on the move. Unobstrusive and elegant, Hommel’s work reveals hidden depths in those he shot. …

Hommel’s straightforward portraiture captured the vulnerability of his sitters, revealing a wistful and often melancholic look in their expressive eyes. His pensive work focused on serious matters, not straining to create fleeting moods but revealing the heart of those he photographed. Employing simple, dark-textured background, Hommel focused on the eyes and lips, creating a sharp image with an often soft-focus background. His portraits often feature shadows and strong angular lines, creating dramatic composition. Hommel could also capture the sometimes insouciant or even overly exuberant emotions of sitters, often covering their vulnerability and pain, such as in his Pierrot portraits of Clara Bow as clown.

lmharnisch. “Mary Mallory / Hollywood Heights: George P. Hommel, Pensive Photographer,” on The Daily Mirror website, July 27, 2020 [Online] Cited 12/05/2026. Used under fair use conditions for the purposes of education and research

 

James Manatt (American, 1896-1989) 'Joan Crawford [in "Letty Lynton"]' 1932

 

James Manatt (American, 1896-1989)
Joan Crawford [in “Letty Lynton”]
1932
Sheet: 13 x 10″ (33 x 25.4cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

'Letty Lynton' (1932) movie poster
'Letty Lynton' (1932) movie poster

 

Letty Lynton (1932) movie posters

 

Elmer Fryer (American, 1898-1944) 'Lili Damita [in "The Match King"]' c. 1932

 

Elmer Fryer (American, 1898-1944)
Lili Damita [in “The Match King”]
c. 1932
Sheet: 14 1/16 x 11″ (35.7 x 27.9cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

'The Match King' (1932) movie poster

 

The Match King (1932) movie poster

 

Bert Longworth (American, 1893-1964) 'Amelia Earhart with Helen Hayes [on set of "A Farewell to Arms"]' 1932

 

Bert Longworth (American, 1893-1964)
Amelia Earhart with Helen Hayes [on set of “A Farewell to Arms”]
1932
Sheet: 13 15/16 x 10 7/8″ (35.4 x 27.6cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

As the studio system came into place with the advent of talkies, studios hired many stillsmen to take scene stills, off-camera images, and candids of both above and below the line talent. Photographers took massive amounts of stills around the lot, at public events, premieres, at homes, in posed shots, to be widely distributed to magazines and newspapers for free publicity promoting upcoming films, new talent, and established stars. The journals, fan magazines, and newspapers splashed these images throughout their pages, building awareness and star popularity.

Bert “Buddy” Longworth was one of the stills photographers taking these images. Longworth began his career shooting scene stills at MGM for Greta Garbo’s first three films, including “Flesh and the Devil,” with Longworth capturing the passion of Garbo and John Gilbert as they fell in love. He was employed for a short time at Paramount, but from 1929 on, he worked at Warner Bros. as an action specialist, working on Busby Berkeley’s spectacular musicals, crime pictures, off-set candids, as well as portraits. Scholar David Shields calls him “Hollywood’s foremost expressionist, often using unusual perspective, occasional use of multiple exposures.”

lmharnisch. “Mary Mallory / Hollywood Heights: Bert Longworth and ‘Hold Still, Hollywood’,” on The Daily Mirror website, June 26, 2023 [Online] Cited 12/05/2026. Used under fair use conditions for the purposes of education and research

 

'A Farewell To Arms' (1932) movie poster

 

A Farewell To Arms (1932) movie poster

 

Unknown photographer. 'Elsa Lanchester [in "The Bride of Frankenstein"]' 1935

 

Unknown photographer
Elsa Lanchester [in “The Bride of Frankenstein”]
1935
Sheet: 13 1/2 x 9 3/16″ (34.3 x 23.3cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

'The Bride of Frankenstein' (1935) movie poster

 

The Bride of Frankenstein (1935) movie poster

 

 

I want to talk more about the edited photographs. In many of the photos white-out has been used to separate the subject’s head or face – and in one notable case, their bare legs – from the rest of the image. What are some ways in which these disembodied segments were used by the studios and by the magazines?

RM: We know they were from Photoplay magazine, so if we have a still that’s been edited for Photoplay, Cara went and looked for the issue that published the photograph to see how it was used. It might have been a feature on women’s legs, so that’s why they only focused on the legs.

There’s one grouping of photographs, I call it the “eat face grouping,” where the stars are very close up. There’s a photograph of someone eating someone’s chin. Those were all taken for a particular issue of Photoplay – that’s why they’re all edited in the same way.

With research and detective work you can determine how they were actually used in print. The floating heads, they would attach to biographies. They call that silhouetting, with the white-out.

CS: A lot of the uses I found were very gossipy, which was interesting, a lot of rumor columns. And then of course, like Ron said, highlighting certain aspects of celebrities’ bodies or features.


Back in 1980 MoMA’s exhibition Hollywood Portrait Photographers, 1921 to 1941 actually used a couple of the same images that appear in this show. But that nnnexhibition celebrated the artistry and glamor of these images. Why did you choose to focus more on the ways that these images have been manipulated and edited?

RM: The audience for photographs like this has changed. In 1980 there was a whole generation of people who knew who these performers were, who appreciated them as performers and appreciated their celebrity. Nowadays, younger audiences, in many cases, have no idea who these folks are. Even we sometimes have trouble identifying everyone. Displaying them in that way seemed dated. We wanted to mount them in a way that reflected how visitors today would need to look at them.

The photographs in 1980 were all matted in a very formal way that encouraged appreciation for the beauty of the photograph. I wasn’t interested in how beautiful the images were. I wasn’t interested in the celebrities. We’re mostly interested in the photographs. I wanted them to look like working photographs, and that’s reflected in the way they’re displayed. We did ours on plexi traps, which turned out to be very elegant, but the notion was that it would be a less precious way of mounting them so we would look at them in a less precious way.

The other thing we did differently was to have large numbers of photographs grouped in very dense clusters. To me that reflects social media today. The way we encounter images daily is so dense, and we’re forced to sort through a lot of images that come our way in any one moment. So I wanted visitors to have a contemporary view. It was meant to reflect a digital-age perspective, because analog-versus-digital was a subtext of the show in our heads.

There were two shows that were touchstones for this one: the Hollywood Portrait show of 1980, and the Fame After Photography show, a wonderful show in 1999 that MoMA’s Photography department mounted. They borrowed a lot of film stills for that show, which was also investigating celebrity and fame.

Ron Magliozzi, Cara Shatzman, Jason Persse. “Cropped, Chopped, and Silhouetted: Taking Celebrity at Face Value,” in the MoMA magazine on the MoMA website Sep 17, 2025 [Online] Cited 10/05/2026. Used under fair use conditions for the purposes of education and research

 

Unknown photographer. 'Louis Armstrong [in "Cabin in the Sky"]' 1943

 

Unknown photographer
Louis Armstrong [in “Cabin in the Sky”]
1943
Sheet: 8 x 10″ (20.3 x 25.4 cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

'Cabin in the sky' (1943) movie poster

 

Cabin in the sky (1943) movie poster

 

Unknown photographer. 'Hattie McDaniel and Ruby Berkley Goodwin' c. 1948

 

Unknown photographer
Hattie McDaniel and Ruby Berkley Goodwin
c. 1948
Sheet: 9 1/16 x 7″ (23 x 17.8cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

“[Ruby Berkley Goodwin] was also Hattie McDaniel’s publicist. And she was Ethel Waters’s publicist. She was the first Black American to have a syndicated newspaper column. She wrote this very famous autobiography called It’s Good to Be Black that was very, very popular. She was a poet. She was a fascinating person, and I was not familiar with her. That was a great aspect of learning about all of these people in these photographs.”

Ron Magliozzi, Cara Shatzman, Jason Persse. “Cropped, Chopped, and Silhouetted: Taking Celebrity at Face Value,” in the MoMA magazine on the MoMA website Sep 17, 2025 [Oline] Cited 10/05/2026. Used under fair use conditions for the purposes of education and research

 

Unknown photographer. 'Janet Leigh and Tony Curtis' c. 1950 (detail)

 

Unknown photographer
Janet Leigh and Tony Curtis
c. 1950 (detail)
Sheet: 8 1/16 x 10″ (20.5 x 25.4cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

'Elvis Presley [Fans' Star Library magazine, No. 13]' 1959

 

Elvis Presley [Fans’ Star Library magazine, No. 13]
1959
Sheet: 7 x 5 1/8″ (17.8 x 13cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Yousuf Karsh (Armenian-Canadian born Mardin, Ottoman Empire (now Turkey), 1908-2002) 'Anna Magnani' 1959

 

Yousuf Karsh (Armenian-Canadian born Mardin, Ottoman Empire (now Turkey), 1908-2002)
Anna Magnani
1959
Sheet: 20 x 15 15/16″ (50.8 x 40.5cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Anna Maria Magnani (Italian, 1908-1973)

Anna Maria Magnani (Italian; 7 March 1908 – 26 September 1973) was an Italian actress. She was the first Italian woman to win an Academy Award.

Born and raised in Rome, Italy or Alexandria, she worked her way through Rome’s Academy of Dramatic Art by singing at night clubs. During her career, her only child was stricken by polio when he was 18 months old and remained disabled. She was referred to as “La Lupa”, the “perennial toast of Rome” and a “living she-wolf symbol” of the cinema. Time described her personality as “fiery”, and drama critic Harold Clurman said her acting was “volcanic”. In the realm of Italian cinema, she was “passionate, fearless, and exciting”, an actress whom film historian Barry Monush calls “the volcanic earth mother of all Italian cinema.” Director Roberto Rossellini called her “the greatest acting genius since Eleonora Duse”. Playwright Tennessee Williams became an admirer of her acting and wrote The Rose Tattoo (1955) specifically for her to star in, a role for which she received an Academy Award for Best Actress.

After meeting director Goffredo Alessandrini, she received her first screen role in The Blind Woman of Sorrento (La cieca di Sorrento, 1934) and later achieved international attention in Rossellini’s Rome, Open City (1945), which is seen as launching the Italian neorealism movement in cinema. As an actress, she became recognised for her dynamic and forceful portrayals of “earthy lower-class women” in such films as L’Amore (1948), Bellissima (1951), The Rose Tattoo (1955), The Fugitive Kind (1960) and Mamma Roma (1962). As early as 1950, Life had already stated that Magnani was “one of the most impressive actresses since Garbo”.

Text from the Wikipedia website

 

Unknown photographer. 'Carlo Ponti and Sophia Loren' c. 1963

 

Unknown photographer
Carlo Ponti and Sophia Loren
c. 1963
Sheet: 8 x 10″ (20.3 x 25.4cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

Ray Wilson. 'Mia Farrow [in "Rosemary's Baby"]' c. 1967

 

Ray Wilson
Mia Farrow [in “Rosemary’s Baby”]
c. 1967
Sheet: 12 x 8 3/16″ (30.5 x 20.8cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

'Rosemary's Baby' (1968) movie poster

 

Rosemary’s Baby (1968) movie poster

 

Kathleen Ballard. 'Lena Horne' 1975

 

Kathleen Ballard
Lena Horne
1975
Sheet: 13 1/16 x 9″ (33.2 x 22.9cm)
The Museum of Modern Art Film Stills Collection

 

 

The Museum of Modern Art
11 West 53 Street
New York, NY 10019
Phone: (212) 708-9400

Opening hours:
10.30am – 5.30pm
Open seven days a week

MoMA website

LIKE ART BLART ON FACEBOOK

Back to top

Exhibition: ‘American Cool’ at the Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery, Washington, DC

Exhibition dates: 7th February – 7th September, 2014

Curators: Joel Dinerstein and Frank H. Goodyear III

 

Bruce Davidson (American, b. 1933) 'Untitled' 1959 from the exhibition 'American Cool' at the Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery, Washington, DC, February - September, 2014

 

Bruce Davidson (American, b. 1933)
Untitled from the Brooklyn Gang series
1959
Gelatin silver print

 

Danny Lyon (American, b. 1942) 'Crossing the Ohio River, Louisville, 1966' 1966 from the exhibition 'American Cool' at the Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery, Washington, DC, February - September, 2014

 

Danny Lyon (American, b. 1942)
Crossing the Ohio River, Louisville, 1966
1966
Silver gelatin print

 

 

This exhibition does not reflect our opinion of who’s cool. Each cool figure was considered with the following historical rubric in mind and possesses at least three elements of this singular American self-concept:

1/ an original artistic vision carried off with a signature style
2/ cultural rebellion or transgression for a given generation
3/ iconic power, or instant visual recognition
4/ a recognised cultural legacy


    Every individual here created an original persona without precedent in American culture. These photographs capture the complex relationship between the real-life person, the image embraced by fans and the media, and the person’s artistic work.

    What does it mean when a generation claims a certain figure as cool? What qualities does this person embody at that historical moment? American Cool explores these questions through photography, history, and popular culture. In this exhibition, cool is rendered visible, as shot by some of the finest art photographers of the past century.


    Anonymous text from the ‘American Cool’ National Portrait Gallery website [Online] Cited 13/06/2021. No longer available online

     

     

    When less – less famous, less obvious – is more

    I don’t know about you, but the photographs chosen to represent American “cool” in this exhibition – 39 of which are shown in the posting out of a total of 108, but the rest are mainly of the same ilk – seem to me to be a singularly strange bunch of images to choose for such a concept. Personally, I find very few of them are “cool”, that is a mixture of a social charge of rebellious self-expression, charisma, edge and mystery with a certain self-made sense of style.

    The only images that I find definitely “cool” among this bunch are, firstly Bob Dylan, closely followed by Jackson Pollock (notice the skull lurking behind him) and Susan Sontag. There is no proposition of cool in these three photographs, the people in them just are. The rest of the photographs, and there really are some atrociously plain and boring portraits among this lot (including a poor portrait of James Dean), really don’t speak to me of cool, don’t speak to me of anything much at all. How you could ever think that the portrait of Willie Nelson, 1989 (printed 2009, below) is cool is beyond me… and what is it with the reprints of the photographs, not originals but modern prints made years later? Perhaps the National Portrait Gallery needed to look beyond their own collection for a more rounded representation of American cool.

    The two photographs I have included above are my top picks of American cool, and neither are in the exhibition. These iconic American images don’t feature famous people, they are not “posed” for the camera, and yet there is that ineffable something that makes the people in them absolutely, totally cool. THIS IS AMERICAN COOL: their own style, their own rebelliousness and mystery without possibly realising it = a naturalness that comes from doing their own thing, making their own way. Perhaps that is the point that this exhibition misses: you don’t have to be famous to be “cool”. A portrait is not just a mug shot. And an original persona does not have to come with fame attached.

    This exhibition just doesn’t cut the mustard. The whole shebang needed a bloody good rethink, from the concept (does a generation have to “claim” someone is cool? Is it necessary or desirable to portray American Cool through media images? Do they have to be famous or instantly recognisable people to be “cool”) to the choice of images which could better illustrate the theme.

    Surely the qualities that person embodies changes from moment to moment, from photographer to photographer, from context to context (just look at the portraits of a haggard James Dean). To attempt to illustrate three elements in a single photograph – good luck with that one!

    Dr Marcus Bunyan

    PS I have added the videos to add a bit of spice to the proceedings… in them you can, occasionally, feel the charisma of the person.


    Many thankx to the Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery for allowing me to publish the photographs in the posting. Please click on the photographs for a larger version of the image.

     

     

    Bob Willoughby (American, 1927-2009) 'Billie Holiday' 1951 (printed 1991)

     

    Bob Willoughby (American, 1927-2009)
    Billie Holiday
    1951, printed 1991
    Gelatin silver print
    25.2 x 35.3cm (19 15/16 x 13 15/16″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

     

    Rare live footage of one of the first anti-racism songs.

     

    Roger Marshutz (American, 1929-2007) 'Elvis Presley' 1956

     

    Roger Marshutz (American, 1929-2007)
    Elvis Presley
    1956
    Gelatin silver print
    Sheet: 40.6 x 50.8cm (16 x 20″)
    © Estee Stanley

     

     

    Elvis Presley Jailhouse Rock 1957 colour
    Colourised version of the song from the film

     

    Herman Leonard (American, 1923-2010) 'Frank Sinatra' c. 1956

     

    Herman Leonard (American, 1923-2010)
    Frank Sinatra
    c. 1956
    Gelatin silver print
    16.5 x 24.1cm (6 1/2 x 9 1/2″)
    Institute of Jazz Studies at Rutgers University

     

    Marcia Resnick (American, b. 1950) 'David Byrne' 1981

     

    Marcia Resnick (American, b. 1950)
    David Byrne
    1981
    Gelatin silver print
    21.8 x 32.5cm (8 9/16 x 12 13/16″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Julian Wasser (American, b. 1938) 'Joan Didion' 1970

     

    Julian Wasser (American, b. 1938)
    Joan Didion
    1970
    Gelatin silver print
    24.3 x 34cm (9 9/16 x 13 3/8″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Joan Didion (1934-2021) is an American author best known for her novels and her literary journalism. Her novels and essays explore the disintegration of American morals and cultural chaos, where the overriding theme is individual and social fragmentation.

     

    Roy Schatt (American, 1909-2002) 'James Dean' 1954

     

    Roy Schatt (American, 1909-2002)
    James Dean
    1954
    Gelatin silver print
    34.7 x 42.2cm (13 11/16 x 16 5/8″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    William Claxton (American, 1927-2008) 'Steve McQueen' 1962

     

    William Claxton (American, 1927-2008)
    Steve McQueen
    1962
    Gelatin silver print
    40 x 58.7cm (15 3/4 x 23 1/8″)
    Fahey Klein Gallery

     

    Martin Schoeller (American, b. 1968) 'Tony Hawk' 1999 (printed 2010)

     

    Martin Schoeller (American, b. 1968)
    Tony Hawk
    1999 (printed 2010)
    Archival pigment print
    58.5 x 58.6cm (23 1/16 x 23 1/16″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

     

    What do we mean when we say someone is cool? Cool carries a social charge of rebellious self-expression, charisma, edge and mystery.

    Cool is an original American sensibility and remains a global obsession. In the early 1940s, legendary jazz saxophonist Lester Young brought this central African American concept into the modern vernacular. Cool became a password in bohemian life connoting a balanced state of mind, a dynamic mode of performance, and a certain stylish stoicism. A cool person has a situation under control, and with a signature style. Cool has been embodied in jazz musicians such as Miles Davis and Billie Holiday, in actors such as Robert Mitchum, Faye Dunaway, and Johnny Depp, and in singers such as Elvis Presley, Patti Smith, and Jay-Z. American Cool is a photography and cultural studies exhibition featuring portraits of such iconic figures, each of whom has contributed an original artistic vision to American culture symbolic of a particular historical moment. They emerged from a variety of fields: art, music, film, sports, comedy, literature, and political activism. American Cool is the zeitgeist taking embodied form.

    American Cool is captured by a roll call of fine-art photographers from Henri Cartier-Bresson to Annie Leibovitz, from Richard Avedon to Herman Leonard to Diane Arbus. This exhibition is accompanied by an illustrated catalogue with essays by Joel Dinerstein, the James H. Clark Endowed Chair in American Civilization and Director of the New Orleans Center for the Gulf South at Tulane University, and Frank H. Goodyear III, co-director of the Bowdoin College Museum of Art and former curator of photographs at the National Portrait Gallery.

     

    Unidentified Artist. 'Jack Nicholson in "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest"' 1975

     

    Unidentified Artist
    Jack Nicholson in “One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest”
    1975
    Gelatin silver print
    17.3 x 25.1cm (6 13/16 x 9 7/8″)
    The Kobal Collection

     

    John Cohen (American, 1932-2019) 'Jack Kerouac' 1959

     

    John Cohen (American, 1932-2019)
    Jack Kerouac
    1959
    Gelatin silver print
    Image: 15.9 x 24.1cm (6 1/4 x 9 1/2″)
    Sheet: 20.2 x 25.4cm (7 15/16 x 10″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Leo Fuchs (American, 1911-1994) 'Paul Newman' 1959 (printed 2013)

     

    Leo Fuchs (American, 1911-1994)
    Paul Newman
    1959 (printed 2013)
    Modern archival print
    Sheet: 27.9 x 35.6cm (11 x 14″)
    © Alexandre Fuchs

     

    William Paul Gottlieb (American, 1917-2006) 'Thelonious Monk at Minton's Playhouse, New York City' 1947

     

    William Paul Gottlieb (American, 1917-2006)
    Thelonious Monk at Minton’s Playhouse, New York City
    1947
    Gelatin silver print
    Sheet: 25.4 x 20.3cm (10 x 8″)
    Estate of William Gottlieb

     

     

    Thelonious Monk Quartet – Round Midnight
    Thelonious Monk(p) Charlie Rouse(ts) Larry Gales(b) Ben Riley(ds)
    Recorded in Norway 1966 dvd “LIVE in ’66”

     

    Peter Hujar (American, 1934-1987) 'Susan Sontag' 1975

     

    Peter Hujar (American, 1934-1987)
    Susan Sontag
    1975
    Gelatin silver print
    37.1 x 37.6cm (14 5/8 x 14 13/16″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Michael O'Brien (American, b. 1950) 'Willie Nelson' 1989 (printed 2009)

     

    Michael O’Brien (American, b. 1950)
    Willie Nelson
    1989 (printed 2009)
    Chromogenic print
    38.1 x 38.1cm (15 x 15″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Introduction

    What do we mean when we say someone is cool? To be cool means to exude the aura of something new and uncontainable. Cool is the opposite of innocence or virtue. Someone cool has a charismatic edge and a dark side. Cool is an earned form of individuality. Each generation has certain individuals who bring innovation and style to a field of endeavour while projecting a certain charismatic self-possession. They are the figures selected for this exhibition: the successful rebels of American culture.

    The legendary jazz saxophonist Lester Young created the modern usage of “cool” in the 1940s. At first it meant being relaxed in one’s environment against oppressive social forces, but within a generation it became a password for stylish self-control. This exhibition does not reflect our opinion of who’s cool. Each cool figure was considered with the following historical rubric in mind and possesses at least three elements of this singular American self-concept:

    1/ an original artistic vision carried off with a signature style
    2/ cultural rebellion or transgression for a given generation
    3/ iconic power, or instant visual recognition
    4/ a recognised cultural legacy

    Every individual here created an original persona without precedent in American culture. These photographs capture the complex relationship between the real-life person, the image embraced by fans and the media, and the person’s artistic work.

    What does it mean when a generation claims a certain figure as cool? What qualities does this person embody at that historical moment? American Cool explores these questions through photography, history, and popular culture. In this exhibition, cool is rendered visible, as shot by some of the finest art photographers of the past century.

    The Roots of Cool: Before 1940

    The stage was set for the emergence of cool as a cultural phenomenon in the early 1940s by a series of sweeping transformations in the first decades of the twentieth century. The figures in this first section were not called cool in their day but were leading exemplars of new energies that were changing the social contours of American life. A fresh rebelliousness was revealed in the new film capital of Hollywood, in modernist literature and art, in emerging youth entertainments, and in a new music called jazz. The advent of technologies such as radio, film, and the automobile and the increasing diversity in America’s booming cities accelerated the pace of change. Though Prohibition in the 1920s sought to regulate American morality by ending the consumption of alcohol, this period saw the expression of a new independence among young people and others historically on the margins of public life. In particular, both African Americans and women sought and began to attain freedoms long denied. Cool has long denoted a person’s sense of calm and composure. Charismatic individuals such as those featured here contributed greatly to the changing mores in American society before World War II. Cool would ultimately serve as the term that would describe this new rebel.

    The Birth of Cool: 1940-1959

    Being cool was a response to the rapid changes of modernity: it was about maintaining a state of equipoise within swirling, dynamic social forces. The legendary jazz saxophonist Lester Young disseminated the word and concept of cool into jazz culture in the early 1940s, and it quickly crossed over as a rebel masculine sensibility. When Young said, “I’m cool,” he meant, first, that he was relaxed in the environment and, second, that he was keeping it together under social and economic pressure as well as the absurdity of life in a racist society. This mask of cool emerged as a form of American stoicism and was manifested in jazz, film noir, Beat literature, and abstract expressionism. In jazz, a generation of younger musicians rejected big-band swing entertainment to create bebop, a fast, angular, virtuosic style that moved jazz out of dance halls and into nightclubs. In Hollywood, film noir represented postwar anxiety through crime dramas shot through with working-class existentialism and the fear of women’s sexual and economic power. Among Beat writers and abstract painters, cool referred to a combination of wildness and intensity in men unconcerned with social conformity. Starting from jazz, cool was a rebel sensibility suggesting that an individual’s importance could be registered only through self-expression and the creation of a signature style. By 1960 cool was the protean password of a surging underground aesthetic.

    Cool and the Counterculture: 1960-1979

    In the 1960s and 1970s, to be cool was to be antiauthoritarian and open to new ideas from young cultural leaders in rock and roll, journalism, film, and African American culture. Cool was a badge of opposition to “the System,” by turns a reference to the police, the government, the military-industrial complex, or traditional morality. Using drugs such as marijuana or even LSD was an indicator of risk taking and expanding one’s consciousness; not experimenting with drugs suggested a fear of opening one’s mind or perspective, of being “uptight” or “square.” The same was true of sexual exploration, social protest, and ethnic politics. The aesthetic of stylised understatement still held power, yet cool itself morphed under the era’s social upheavals. The counterculture valued being authentic and emotionally naked: being cool meant a person was “out-front” with others and comfortable in his or her own skin. For African Americans, what had once been suppressed under the mask of cool transformed into defiant civic engagement in music, sports, and politics. “Cool” meant to communicate a set of emotions without losing control, and rock and roll was the art form (and forum) best suited for this shift, especially for women. Patti Smith, Bonnie Raitt, Deborah Harry, and Chrissie Hynde all carved out new iconic stances, styles, and voices for independent women who were sexy on their own terms. Cool became the supreme compliment for creative public figures who broke new cultural ground and maintained their personal integrity over time.

    The Legacies of Cool: 1980-Present

    In 1980s America, the selling of rebellion as style became ingrained in cool. From highbrow fashion to mass-culture video games, product designers, advertisers, and consumers embraced the cool aesthetic. For many during this era, selling out was no longer a curse, as youth culture increasingly embraced the pursuit of wealth. And though some might proclaim that cool was dead, the concept stayed alive and grew in many quarters. From hip-hop to Seattle grunge, from skateboarding to the Internet, from street graffiti to MTV, cool became central to many of these new cultural forms. While its popularisation tended to whiten this phenomenon, African American culture remained central to its growth. By the 1980s cool also had an easily recognisable history, and many figures from its past – like heroes from a bygone era – continued to resonate widely. Indeed, new icons of cool often built careers that owed much to these earlier exemplars. Throughout the twentieth century, cool was America’s chief cultural export. With the rapid growth of global communication and markets, it plays an even larger role both in the world’s understanding of America and in Americans’ own sense of national identity. The figures in this final section are representative of the legacies of cool as a distinct form of American expression.

    Press release from the Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery website

     

    Martin Munkacsi (Hungarian, 1896-1963) 'Fred Astaire' 1936

     

    Martin Munkacsi (Hungarian, 1896-1963)
    Fred Astaire
    1936
    Gelatin silver print
    24.1 x 19cm (9 1/2 x 7 1/2″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

     

    Swing Time – Rogers and Astaire

    In this Swing Time clip, Lucky, Astaire, saves Penny’s, Rogers, job by showing how much she has taught him.

     

    Philippe Halsman (American, 1906-1979) 'Audrey Hepburn' 1955

     

    Philippe Halsman (American, 1906-1979)
    Audrey Hepburn
    1955
    Gelatin silver print
    Image/Sheet: 34.9 x 27cm (13 3/4 x 10 5/8″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Dmitri Kasterine (British, b. 1932) 'Jean-Michel Basquait' 1986

     

    Dmitri Kasterine (British, b. 1932)
    Jean-Michel Basquait
    1986
    Gelatin silver print
    38.3 x 37.7cm (15 1/16 x 14 13/16″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Cass Bird (American, b. 1974) 'Benicio Del Toro' 2008 (printed 2012)

     

    Cass Bird (American, b. 1974)
    Benicio Del Toro
    2008 (printed 2012)
    Inkjet print
    45.3 x 35.3cm (17 13/16 x 13 7/8″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Carl Van Vechten (American, 1880-1964) 'Bessie Smith' 1936

     

    Carl Van Vechten (American, 1880-1964)
    Bessie Smith
    1936
    Gelatin silver print
    Image/Sheet: 25.2 x 18.6cm (9 15/16 x 7 5/16″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Bessie Smith (April 15, 1894 – September 26, 1937) was an African-American blues singer widely renowned during the Jazz Age. Nicknamed the “Empress of the Blues”, she was the most popular female blues singer of the 1930s. Inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 1989, she is often regarded as one of the greatest singers of her era and was a major influence on fellow blues singers, as well as jazz vocalists.

    Born in Chattanooga, Tennessee, Smith was young when her parents died, and she and her six siblings survived by performing on street corners. She began touring and performed in a group that included Ma Rainey, and then went out on her own. Her successful recording career with Columbia Records began in 1923, but her performing career was cut short by a car crash that killed her at the age of 43.

    Text from the Wikipedia website

     

     

    ST. LOUIS BLUES. Blues Legend Bessie Smith’s only film appearance. Uncut 1929 

    This is not only a landmark because it contains Bessie Smith’s only known film appearance but also for being one of the very first talkies ever made. This is the complete film co-starring Jimmy Mordecai as her gigolo boyfriend.

     

    Robert Mapplethorpe (American, 1946-1989) 'Deborah Harry' 1978

     

    Robert Mapplethorpe (American, 1946-1989)
    Deborah Harry
    1978
    Gelatin silver print
    Image: 34.9 x 34.9cm (13 3/4 x 13 3/4″)
    Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation

     

    Philippe Halsman (American born Latvia, 1906-1979) 'Humphrey Bogart' 1944

     

    Philippe Halsman (American born Latvia, 1906-1979)
    Humphrey Bogart
    1944
    Gelatin silver print
    Image: 11.3 x 8.6cm (4 7/16 x 3 3/8″)
    Mat: 45.7 x 35.6cm (18 x 14″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Samuel Hollyer (British, 1826-1919) 'Leaves of Grass, 1st Edition' Copy after: Gabriel Harrison 1855

     

    Samuel Hollyer (British, 1826-1919)
    Leaves of Grass, 1st Edition
    Copy after: Gabriel Harrison
    1855
    Book (closed): 28.9 x 20.6 x 1cm (11 3/8 x 8 1/8 x 3/8″)
    Private Collection

     

    Unidentified Artist. 'Frederick Douglas' 1856

     

    Unidentified Artist
    Frederick Douglas
    1856
    Quarter-plate ambrotype
    Image: 10.6 x 8.6cm (4 3/16 x 3 3/8″)
    Case (open): 11.9 x 19.1 x 1.3cm (4 11/16 x 7 1/2 x 1/2″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Linda McCartney (American, 1941-1998) 'Jimi Hendrix' 1967 (printed later)

     

    Linda McCartney (American, 1941-1998)
    Jimi Hendrix
    1967 (printed later)
    Platinum print
    51.3 x 35.3 cm (20 3/16 x 13 7/8″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

     

    The Jimi Hendrix Experience – Voodoo Child (Slight Return) (Live In Maui, 1970)

    An incredible live performance of Voodoo Child (Slight Return) by Jimmy and his band in Maui, 1970.

     

    William Paul Gottlieb (American, 1917-2006) 'Duke Ellington' c. 1946 (printed 1991)

     

    William Paul Gottlieb (American, 1917-2006)
    Duke Ellington
    c. 1946 (printed 1991)
    Gelatin silver print
    34.1 x 26.7 cm (13 7/16 x 10 1/2″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

     

    Duke Ellington & His Orchestra live in Tivoli Garden 1969

    Fantastic performance footage of one of Jazz’s greatest stars – Duke Ellington.

    Duke Ellington may have turned 70 in 1969, but he was never short of energy, creativity and innovations. At the time of this Nov. 2, 1969 concert in Copenhagen, Ellington had been leading his orchestra for 44 years, but he still never really looked back in time or sought to recreate the past. Even when he performed older favorites, they were rearranged and full of surprises, and Duke’s own piano playing was modern, percussive and unpredictable. Twelve soloists are heard from during this 83-minute set including such veterans as trumpeters Cootie Williams and Cat Anderson, trombonist Lawrence Brown, altoist Harry Carney and Paul Gonsalves on tenor. Along with exciting versions of “C Jam Blues,” “Rockin’ In Rhythm” and “Take The ‘A’ Train,” the highlights include a three-song Johnny Hodges medley, a haunting “La Plus Belle Africaine,” and a tenor battle among Gonsalves, Harold Ashby and Norris Turney on “Diminuendo And Crescendo In Blue.” Filmed in colour and with close-ups that give listeners the experience of being onstage with the Duke Ellington Orchestra.

     

    Mark Seliger (American, b. 1959) 'Kurt Cobain' 1993 (printed 2013)

     

    Mark Seliger (American, b. 1959)
    Kurt Cobain
    1993 (printed 2013)
    Platinum Palladium print
    46.7 × 35.5cm (18 3/8 × 14″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

     

    Nirvana – Smells Like Teen Spirit (Official Music Video)

     

    Philippe Halsman (American, 1906-1979) 'Marlon Brando' 1950 (printed later)

     

    Philippe Halsman (American, 1906-1979)
    Marlon Brando
    1950 (printed later)
    Gelatin silver print
    34.4 x 26.8cm (13 9/16 x 10 9/16″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Charles H. "Chuck" Stewart (American, 1927-2017) 'Muddy Waters' c. 1960

     

    Charles H. “Chuck” Stewart (American, 1927-2017)
    Muddy Waters
    c. 1960
    Gelatin silver print
    25.4 x 18.4cm (10 x 7 1/4″)
    Institute of Jazz Studies at Rutgers University

     

     

    Muddy Waters – Got My Mojo Workin’

     

    Alfred Eisenstaedt (American, 1898-1995) 'Lauren Bacall' 1949 (printed 2013)

     

    Alfred Eisenstaedt (American, 1898-1995)
    Lauren Bacall
    1949 (printed 2013)
    Pigmented ink jet print
    40.3 x 27.9cm (15 7/8 x 11″)

     

    Kate Simon (American, b. 1953) 'Madonna' 1983 (printed 2013)

     

    Kate Simon (American, b. 1953)
    Madonna
    1983 (printed 2013)
    Gelatin silver print
    33.7 × 22.9cm (13 1/4 × 9″)
    © Kate Simon

     

     

    Madonna – Papa Don’t Preach (Official Video)

     

    Aram Avakian (American, 1926-1987) 'Miles Davis' 1955 (printed 2012)

     

    Aram Avakian (American, 1926-1987)
    Miles Davis
    1955 (printed 2012)
    Modern print made from original negative
    34.6 × 24.1cm (13 5/8 × 9 1/2″)

     

     

    Miles Davis – So What (Official Video)

     

    Unidentified Artist. 'Bix Beiderbecke' c. 1920

     

    Unidentified Artist
    Bix Beiderbecke
    c. 1920
    Gelatin silver print
    19.1 x 11.4cm (7 1/2 x 4 1/2″)
    Institute of Jazz Studies at Rutgers University

     

     

    At the Jazz Band Ball – Bix Beiderbecke and His Gang, 1927

     

     

    Royal Garden Blues – Bix Beiderbecke 1927

    Leon Bismark “Bix” Beiderbecke (March 10, 1903 – August 6, 1931) was an American jazz cornetist, jazz pianist, and composer.

    With Louis Armstrong and Muggsy Spanier, Beiderbecke was one of the most influential jazz soloists of the 1920s. His turns on “Singin’ the Blues” and “I’m Coming, Virginia” (both 1927), in particular, demonstrated an unusual purity of tone and a gift for improvisation. With these two recordings, especially, he helped to invent the jazz ballad style and hinted at what, in the 1950s, would become cool jazz. “In a Mist” (1927), one of a handful of his piano compositions and one of only two he recorded, mixed classical (Impressionist) influences with jazz syncopation.

     

    Leon Bismark “Bix” Beiderbecke (March 10, 1903 – August 6, 1931) was an American jazz cornetist, jazz pianist, and composer. A native of Davenport, Iowa.

    Bix Beiderbecke was one of the great jazz musicians of the 1920’s; he was also a child of the Jazz Age who drank himself to an early grave with illegal Prohibition liquor. His hard drinking and beautiful tone on the cornet made him a legend among musicians during his life. The legend of Bix grew even larger after he died. Bix never learned to read music very well, but he had an amazing ear even as a child. His parents disapproved of his playing music and sent him to a military school outside of Chicago in 1921. He was soon expelled for skipping class and became a full-time musician. In 1923 Beiderbecke joined the Wolverine Orchestra and recorded with them the following year. Bix was influenced a great deal by the Original Dixieland Jass Band, but soon surpassed their playing. In late 1924 Bix left the Wolverines to join Jean Goldkette’s Orchestra, but his inability to read music eventually resulted in him losing the job. In 1926 he spent some time with Frankie Trumbauer’s Orchestra where he recorded his solo piano masterpiece “In a Mist”. He also recorded some of his best work with Trumbauer and guitarist, Eddie Lang, under the name of Tram, Bix, and Eddie.

    Bix was able to bone up on his sight-reading enough to re-join Jean Goldkette’s Orchestra briefly, before signing up as a soloist with Paul Whiteman’s Orchestra. Whiteman’s Orchestra was the most popular band of the 1920’s and Bix enjoyed the prestige and money of playing with such a successful outfit, but it didn’t stop his drinking. In 1929 Bix’s drinking began to catch up with him. He suffered from delirium tremens and he had a nervous breakdown while playing with the Paul Whiteman Orchestra, and was eventually sent back to his parents in Davenport, Iowa to recover. It should be noted that Paul Whiteman was very good to Bix during his struggles. He kept Bix on full pay long after his breakdown, and promised him that his chair was always open in the Whiteman Orchestra, but, Bix was never the same again, and never rejoined the band.

    He returned to New York in 1930 and made a few more records with his friend Hoagy Carmichael and under the name of Bix Beiderbecke and his Orchestra. But mainly, he holed himself up in a rooming house in Queens, New York where he drank a lot and worked on his beautiful solo piano pieces “Candlelight”, “Flashes”, and “In The Dark” (played here by Ralph Sutton; Bix never recorded them). He died at age 28 in 1931 during an alcoholic seizure. The official cause of death was lobar pneumonia and edema of the brain.

     

    Gerard Malanga (American, b. 1943) 'Lou Reed' 1966

     

    Gerard Malanga (American, b. 1943)
    Lou Reed
    1966
    Gelatin silver print
    48.3 x 36.2cm (19 x 14 1/4″)
    © Martin Irvine

     

     

    Lou Reed – Sweet Jane – live in Paris, 1974

     

    Arnold A. Newman (American, 1918-2006) 'Jackson Pollock' 1949

     

    Arnold A. Newman (American, 1918-2006)
    Jackson Pollock
    1949
    Gelatin silver print
    46 x 36.7cm (18 1/8 x 14 7/16″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Lynn Goldsmith (American, b. 1948) 'Patti Smith' 1976 (printed 2012)

     

    Lynn Goldsmith (American, b. 1948)
    Patti Smith
    1976 (printed 2012)
    Digital inkjet print
    Image: 46.9 x 30cm (18 7/16 x 11 13/16″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Philippe Halsman (American, 1906-1979) 'Clint Eastwood' 1971

     

    Philippe Halsman (American, 1906-1979)
    Clint Eastwood
    1971
    Gelatin silver print
    34.3 x 27.3cm (13 1/2 x 10 3/4″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    Richard Avedon (American, 1923-2004) 'Bob Dylan, Singer, New York City, February 10, 1965' 1965

     

    Richard Avedon (American, 1923-2004)
    Bob Dylan, Singer, New York City, February 10, 1965
    1965
    Gelatin silver print
    25.4 × 20.3cm (10 × 8″)
    © Richard Avedon Foundation

     

     

    Bob Dylan – Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door (Live)

    From the Hard to Handle concert film. Bob Dylan, backed by Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers during their Australian tour in 1986.

     

    Eli Reed (American, b. 1946) 'Tupac Shakur' 1992 (printed 2013)

     

    Eli Reed (American, b. 1946)
    Tupac Shakur
    1992 (printed 2013)
    Digitally exposed chromogenic print
    34.6 x 27.3cm (13 5/8 x 10 3/4″)
    National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

     

    William Paul Gottlieb (American, 1917-2006) 'Gene Krupa at 400 Restaurant, New York City' June 1946

     

    William Paul Gottlieb (American, 1917-2006)
    Gene Krupa at 400 Restaurant, New York City
    June 1946
    Gelatin silver print
    Sheet: 35.6 x 27.9cm (14 x 11″)
    Estate of William Gottlieb

     

    Eugene Bertram “Gene” Krupa (January 15, 1909 – October 16, 1973) was an American jazz and big band drummer, actor and composer, known for his highly energetic and flamboyant style. In the 1930s, Krupa became the first endorser of Slingerland drums. At Krupa’s urging, Slingerland developed tom-toms with tuneable top and bottom heads, which immediately became important elements of virtually every drummer’s setup. Krupa developed and popularized many of the cymbal techniques that became standards. His collaboration with Armand Zildjian of the Avedis Zildjian Company developed the modern hi-hat cymbals and standardised the names and uses of the ride cymbal, the crash cymbal, the splash cymbal, the pang cymbal and the swish cymbal. One of his bass drums, a Slingerland inscribed with Benny Goodman’s and Krupa’s initials, is preserved at the Smithsonian museum in Washington, D.C. In 1978, Krupa became the first drummer inducted into the Modern Drummer Hall of Fame.

     

     

    Gene Krupa – Having A Good Time

     

     

    Gene Krupa – Big Noise From Winnetka

     

     

    Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery
    8th and F Sts NW
    Washington, DC 20001

    Opening hours:
    11.30am – 7.00pm daily

    Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery website

    LIKE ART BLART ON FACEBOOK

    Back to top

    Review: Polixeni Papapetrou ‘A Performative Paradox’ and Daniel von Sturmer 
’After Images’ at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP), Fitzroy, Melbourne

    Exhibition dates: 24th May – 14th July, 2013

    Papapetrou curator: Professor Anne Marsh in consultation with the artist

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018) 'Drag queen wearing cut out dress' 1993 from the exhibition Polixeni Papapetrou 'A Performative Paradox' at the CCP, Melbourne, May - July, 2013

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018)
    Drag queen wearing cut out dress
    1993
    Gelatin silver photograph
    28.5 x 28.5cm
    Courtesy the artist and Nellie Castan Gallery, Melbourne and Stills Gallery, Sydney

     

     

    Two solid if not overly memorable exhibitions are presented at the Centre for Contemporary Photography.

    Polixeni Papapetrou A Performative Paradox is a bit of a dog’s breakfast. While it is wonderful to see early work by this artist – work that features Marilyn and Elvis impersonators, circus people, body builders and drag queens – too many bodies of work are crammed into too small a space with too few images. Some of the later series are represented by just one image giving a hotch potch feel to the whole exhibition ensemble. Perhaps it would have been better to concentrate solely on the early black-and-white images and colour images, work that is rarely seen and informs the staged work that followed. Having said that the black-and-white photographs are a joy to behold, documenting as they do performative identities. The photographs have an intangible presence. There are strong elements of the frontality of Diane Arbus in the photographs of circus performers and drag queens, coupled with a intrinsic understanding of light and texture. The photographs of drag queens are the highlight of both exhibitions and Drag queen wearing cut out dress (1993, below) reminded me of an early black-and-white photograph by Fiona Hall (Leura, New South Wales, 1974) in its use of patterned wallpaper. Let us hope there is a large retrospective of Polixeni’s work (at NGV or Heide for example) in the future, one that can do justice to the depth and complexity of her vision as an artist.

    Daniel von Sturmer 
After Images is an interesting conceptual experiment, one that investigates the splitting of the image (shadow) from its referent (object). “The images propose a kind of transference; the object itself may be insignificant but its subjective meaning carries weight, and its shadow leaves a space the viewer fills with their own reading.” In their black-and-white fuzziness the work looks impressive when viewed in the gallery space (see installation views below) but upon close inspection the individual photographs fail to hold the viewers attention. Personally, I found it difficult to impart any great meaning to any of these works and the investigation certainly does not produce memorable images, ones that will stay with the viewer months and years later. For me the exhibition became an exercise in guessing what shadows were which objects, a game that grew quickly tiresome. The work then became an exercise in the importance of captioning an image, as I constantly looked around the room trying to match the titles of the works with the images themselves. As abstract images they imparted little metaphysical poetry as ghost images (an afterimage or ghost image is an optical illusion that refers to an image continuing to appear in one’s vision after the exposure to the original image has ceased). As images that investigate the link between text, object, shadow and language they started to become what the artist sought to enunciate: shadow objects bound to the realm of signification in some amorphous play, shadows that have the potential to become ‘Other’.

    PS. As an analogy you could see these images as the equivalent of Jung’s human “shadow aspect” where, according to Jung, the shadow, in being instinctive and irrational, is prone to projection (as these shadows are projected by their objects). The shadow represents the entirety of the unconscious, ie. everything of which a person is not fully conscious, and is the seat of creativity. “Everyone carries a shadow,” Jung wrote, “and the less it is embodied in the individual’s conscious life, the blacker and denser it is.” (Jung, C.G. (1938). “Psychology and Religion.” In CW 11: Psychology and Religion: West and East. p. 131).

    Hence the potential halo/cination of these images.

    Dr Marcus Bunyan


    Many thankx to the CCP for allowing me to publish the photographs in the posting. Please click on the photographs for a larger version of the image. All installation photographs © Marcus Bunyan

     

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018) 'Suzie, Elvis fan at home, Melbourne' 1989 from the exhibition Polixeni Papapetrou 'A Performative Paradox' at the CCP, Melbourne, May - July, 2013

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018)
    Suzie, Elvis fan at home, Melbourne
    1989
    Selenium toned gelatin silver photograph
    40.7 x 40.7cm
    Courtesy the artist and Nellie Castan Gallery, Melbourne and Stills Gallery, Sydney

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018) 'Indian Brave' 2002

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018)
    Indian Brave
    2002
    Pigment ink print
    85 x 85cm
    Courtesy the artist and Nellie Castan Gallery, Melbourne and Stills Gallery, Sydney

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018) 'Three young men paying homage to Elvis on the 13th anniversary of Elvis' death, Elvis Memorial Melbourne' 1990

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018)
    Three young men paying homage to Elvis on the 13th anniversary of Elvis’ death, Elvis Memorial Melbourne
    1990
    Selenium toned gelatin silver photograph
    40.7 x 40.7cm
    Courtesy the artist and Nellie Castan Gallery, Melbourne and Stills Gallery, Sydney

     

     

    This exhibition focuses on the performative in the work of Polixeni Papapetrou, from her early documentary work through to her directorial work with her children since 2002, regarded internationally as some of the most powerful and provocative works in the field of perfomative photography. Papapetrou’s enduring interest is in how the ‘other’ is represented and how the ‘other’ performs in reinforcing our own identity.

    Polixeni Papapetrou is one of Australia’s leading contemporary photomedia artists. She has been exploring relationships between history, contemporary culture, landscape, identity and childhood through her photographic practice since the mid-eighties. In this exhibition, selected by Professor Anne Marsh in consultation with the artist, a particular thread has been selected across Papapetrou’s practice – that of the performative – from her early documentary work through to her directorial work with her children from 2002 to the present.

    Her images are informed by her own experience as ‘other’, growing up as a Greek immigrant in a white, Anglo-Saxon, male-dominated culture in Australia in the 1960s and 1970s. Marilyn Monroe impersonators, Elvis Presley fans, body builders, circus performers and drag queens have all taken their turn in front of Papapetrou’s camera. All of these people are, one way or another, performing identities.

    In 2002 Papapetrou turned her focus to the experience of childhood, using her children as the performers in her pictures. There is a challenging confusion between fantasy, mythology, archetype, animism and theatricality present in these works, ranging from the playful to the transgressive, wrangling with the question of identity and stressing the embodied nature of experience.

    Text from the CCP website

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018) 'Fortune teller' 1989 (detail)

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018)
    Fortune teller (detail)
    1989
    From the series Ashton Circus, Silvers Circus 1989-1990

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou. 'Levitation, Silvers Circus' 1989 (detail)

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018)
    Levitation, Silvers Circus (detail)
    1989
    From the series Ashton Circus, Silvers Circus 1989-1990

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018) 'Ashton Circus, Silvers Circus' series 1989-1990 (installation view)

     

    Polixeni Papapetrou (Australian, 1960-2018)
    Ashton Circus, Silvers Circus series (installation view)
    1989-1990
    Photo: Marcus Bunyan

     

    Installation view of Polixeni Papapetrou 'A Performative Paradox' at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)

    Installation view of Polixeni Papapetrou 'A Performative Paradox' at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)

    Installation view of Polixeni Papapetrou 'A Performative Paradox' at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)

    Installation view of Polixeni Papapetrou 'A Performative Paradox' at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)

    Installation view of Polixeni Papapetrou 'A Performative Paradox' at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)

     

    Installation views of Polixeni Papapetrou A Performative Paradox at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)
    Photos: Marcus Bunyan

     

    Daniel von Sturmer (New Zealand, b. 1972) 'Production Still for After Images' from the exhibition 'After Images' by Daniel von Sturmer at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP), May - July, 2013

     

    Daniel von Sturmer (New Zealand, b. 1972)
    Production Still for After Images
    Courtesy the artist and Anna Schwartz Gallery, Melbourne and Sydney

     

     

    In After Images the shadows of a set of subjectively ‘important artefacts’ (a business card, a phone, a letter…) are presented alongside generic objects from the studio, for example: a bin, some tape, a ruler… Presented at 1:1 scale, the images propose a kind of transference; the object itself may be insignificant but its subjective meaning carries weight, and its shadow leaves a space the viewer fills with their own reading.

    Photographed using a specially constructed ‘set’ to enable the separation of an object from its shadow, the resulting image stands alone, separated from its object yet inextricably bound to the realm of signification from which it has been cast.

    Text from the CCP website

     

    Installation view of Daniel von Sturmer 'After Images' at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)

    Installation view of Daniel von Sturmer 'After Images' at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)

    Installation view of Daniel von Sturmer 'After Images' at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)

    Installation view of Daniel von Sturmer 'After Images' at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)

    Installation view of Daniel von Sturmer 
'After Images' at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)

     

    Installation views of Daniel von Sturmer 
After Images at the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP)
    Photos: Marcus Bunyan

     

     

    Centre for Contemporary Photography

    No permanent exhibition space at the moment

    Centre for Contemporary Photography website

    LIKE ART BLART ON FACEBOOK

    Back to top

    Exhibition: ‘Karlheinz Weinberger: Intimate Stranger’ at Kunstmuseum Basel, Museum for Gegenwartskunst

    Exhibition dates: 21st January – 15th April 2012

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Hardau, Zürich' 1962

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Hardau, Zürich
    1962
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    50.7 x 58cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

     

    Another relatively unknown artist, people whose work I like promoting in this archive. I certainly had never heard of this photographer. A self-taught part-time photographer who worked as a warehouseman most of his life, Weinberger published photographs in the homosexual magazine “Der Kreis,” the same early gay magazine that George Platt Lynes submitted photographs to in the last stages of his life.

    While their might seem to be a dichotomy between the desirous photographs of male youth and the city toughs and “rowdies”, gay men have always been drawn to rough trade: from Oscar Wilde who was more sexually drawn towards the swarthy young rough trade to contemporary iconography of gay skinheads and punks, still a prevalent culture in London for example. Tattoos, shaved heads, braces, Docs – in Weinberger’s case rockabillies. Notice how in the photograph of the male reclining with candlestick, the form of the candlestick mimics the spidery tattoo on the hand in the photograph above. Notice also how the crouching nude lad looks almost identical to the lad in the photograph below, with his hands thrust into his pockets emphasising the crutch area. And the earlier crutch photograph with the mating of Elvis and Vince over a skull and cross bones which has delicious, subversive homosocial overtones. Toughs or not, there is always the desire for the dangerous and different.

    Dr Marcus Bunyan


    Many thankx to the Kunstmuseum Basel for allowing me to publish the photographs in the posting. Please click on the photographs for a larger version of the image.

     

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Knabenschiessen, Albisgütli, Zürich' 1961

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Knabenschiessen, Albisgütli, Zürich
    1961
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    50.5 x 60.5cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Fisherman with Hat, Sicily' c. 1960

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Fisherman with Hat, Sicily
    c. 1960
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    18.5 x 24cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Drei zusammen (three together)' c. 1965

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Drei zusammen (three together)
    c. 1965
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    50 x 53.5cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Untitled, Zürich' c. 1962

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Untitled, Zürich
    c. 1962
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    23.8 x 30.4cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Untitled, Zurich' c. 1962

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Untitled, Zurich
    c. 1962
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    23.8 x 30.4cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Untitled, Zurich' c. 1962

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Untitled, Zurich
    c. 1962
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    23.8 x 30.4cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Untitled, Zurich' c. 1962

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Untitled, Zurich
    c. 1962
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    29.7 x 39.1cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

     

    The exhibition presents the rarely shown work of the photographer Karlheinz Weinberger (1921-2006). Together with magazines and a selection of vintage apparel, the pictures document a youth culture in Zurich that emerged after World War II whose members sought to subvert contemporary notions of “Swiss correctness.”

    Weinberger spent the largest part of his life working as a warehouseman for Siemens-Albis in Zurich. In his free time, he was a self-taught photographer, portraying his lovers and people he met in the street. From the late 1940s on, he frequently published his pictures in “Der Kreis,” a homosexual magazine produced in Zurich from 1943 until 1967 that garnered international attention, pseudonymously signing his work as “Jim.” In 1958, he launched a major project for which he would photograph a group of teenagers, the city’s so-called “Halbstarke,” over an extended period of time. Weinberger’s unfailingly respectful approach allowed him to capture the non-conformism of these “rowdies” with regard to social convention and their play with stereotypes of masculinity and femininity, most readily evident in the way they dressed.

    Wearing embroidered denim jackets and oversized belt buckles adorned with the likenesses of idols such as Elvis or James Dean, Weinberger’s adolescent subjects present themselves to his camera in public settings like members of a gang. Photographs such as those taken at the Knabenschiessen, a target shooting competition held at Zurich’s Albisgüetli, show them sprawling on the ground between fairground stalls and compact vans, illustrating the “Halbstarke”‘s refusal to fit in with the traditions surrounding this Zurich folk festival. In addition to the photographs in public settings, Weinberger also took pictures in the improvised studio in his living room. Scantily clad, some of his subjects, mostly young men, strike confident poses showing off their denim shorts and hats, while others cower, their eyes glancing at the camera with a vulnerable expression. Weinberger’s role is that of an Intimate Stranger: he records the attitudes of a generation and its marginal social position in unvarnished pictures and develops the photographs capturing the objects of his fascination in his own photo laboratory.

    In an oeuvre that spanned many years, Weinberger portrayed what lay behind the curtains of 1960s bourgeois Switzerland, finding ways to document deviancy without ever putting his protagonists on display.

    Press release from the Kunstmuseum Basel website

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Untitled' c. 1969

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Untitled
    c. 1969
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    30.4 x 23.8cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Untitled' c. 1961

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Untitled
    c. 1961
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    24 x 18cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Untitled' c. 1960

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Untitled
    c. 1960
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    39 x 29cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

     

    What is the story behind Karlheinz Weinberger and his photographs?

    Weinberger was totally fascinated with photography. From the day he received his first camera at a very young age, which was given to him by a lover, he felt the urge to take pictures. Although he had a day job as warehouseman and never really made money with his shots, he maintained this passion until the end of his life. Under the pseudonym Jim he began, in the mid 50s, to publish portraits in a gay magazine. Most of them were taken whilst travelling in Southern Italy. In 1958, he met a young rocker named Jimmy Oechslin in the streets of Zurich and asked him, excitedly, if he could take his portrait. Through him he was introduced to the burgeoning gang culture in Switzerland. Teenagers under the influence of American culture celebrated their own lifestyle by wearing customised jeans and by riding motorcycles. Eventually, in the 80s and 90s, Weinberger went on to photograph the Hell’s Angels in Switzerland.

    How would you describe Weinberger’s aesthetic?

    Rough, personal, artistic. He was at times very commanding during photo shoots and had an almost ethnographic interest in gangs and biker culture. At times, a buckle belt was more important than a face. Through his passion for photography he was part of gangs without adopting their lifestyle.

    Who are the people in these images?

    In Germany and Switzerland the German term ‘Halbstarker’ was created in the 50s. It literally means half strong. The ‘half strongs’ were gangs of young people who were looking for an identity of their own. They rejected society’s expectation and were pioneers in the establishment of youth culture through music, cloths and assimilation of American culture.

    Ricky Lee. “Karlheinz Weinberger: Rebel Youth,” on the AnOther website February 7th, 2011 [Online] Cited 06/04/2012

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'The Jets, Basel' 1962

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    The Jets, Basel
    1962
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'The Lions, Basel' c. 1962

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    The Lions, Basel
    c. 1962
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Zürich am Limmatquai' 1962

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Zürich am Limmatquai
    1962
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    30 x 24cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Milchbuck, Zürich' c. 1962

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Milchbuck, Zürich
    c. 1962
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    60.5 x 49cm
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger(Swiss, 1921-2006)

    Career

    Karlheinz Weinberger was a self-taught photographer spending over sixty years producing intimate, often homoerotic photographs of rebellious male youth, mostly working-class men. Weinberger worked in the warehouse at Zürich’s Siemens factory during the day and his nights he spent shooting portraits of construction workers, bikers, and athletes for the underground gay journal Der Kreis. Weinberger published his works under the pseudonym Jim. In 1958 he began focusing his camera on the Halbstarken, an edgy, antiauthoritarian teen subculture whose members styled themselves as bad boys à la James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause or Elvis Presley.

    Work

    As early as 1948, Weinberger made contact with the gay magazine Der Kreis, where he used the pseudonym “Jim”. At the parties of the district subscribers, he showed off his musical talent and was the “house photographer”. From September 1952 to 1965 his photographs were an integral part of the circle. With around 80 photos published, he had a significant impact on homosexual aesthetics until the end of the magazine in 1967 and its successor magazine Club68. The photographs, which Weinberger published under the pseudonym “Jim”, mainly show workers and evoke the homoeroticism of simple men.

    From 1958 Weinberger began photographing the hooligan scene in Zürich. He was also interested in rockers and tattooed people. Weinberger was one of the first photographers to get permission to document the Hells Angels’ local offshoot. Between 1964 and 1976 Weinberger also worked as a freelancer for various sports magazines and specialised in sports reports.

    Text from the Wikipedia website

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Adler Gang, Zurich' c. 1966

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Adler Gang, Zurich
    c. 1966
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006) 'Lone Star Camp, Gossau' 1967

     

    Karlheinz Weinberger (Swiss, 1921-2006)
    Lone Star Camp, Gossau
    1967
    Schwarz-Weiss Fotografie
    Courtesy The Estate of Karlheinz Weinberger in care of Patrik Schedler, Zürich

     

     

    Kunstmuseum Basel
    St. Alban-Graben 16
    CH-4010 Basel
    Phone: 0041 (0)61 206 62 62

    Opening hours:
    Tuesday – Sunday 10am – 6pm
    Closed on Monday

    Kunstmuseum Basel website

    LIKE ART BLART ON FACEBOOK

    Back to top